Do physical damp proof courses fail?

Why DPC Injection Work is Rarely Required. 

The damp proofing industry in the UK commonly promote two statements that are fundamental to this industry. Firstly, they promote rising damp as a common occurrence and we can comfortably state that this is simply untrue. It is an academically proven fact that  rising damp is incredibly rare.

The second claim, which is also fundamental to an industry that sells retrofit chemical injection and re-plastering is that physical damp proof courses commonly fail.  We have reviewed many many reports from these ‘specialist’ companies and the absence or failure of an existing physical DPC is commonly cited as justification for installing a retrofit chemical injection system. Moreover, you have all commonly seen retrofit chemical injection work installed where physical DPC’s already exist.

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There are of course legislative requirements for the insertion of a physical dpc in new buildings. Approved document C, Section 5.2, states that walls should: resist the passage of moisture from the ground to the inside of the building; and not be damaged by moisture from the ground to any part which would be damaged by it. This requirement is met if a damp proof course is provided of; bituminous material, polyethylene, engineering bricks or slates in cement mortar or any other material that will prevent the passage of moisture.  However, relatively speaking this is modern requirement and we have many thousands of properties in the UK that do not have have a physical damp proof course installed and yet they manage moisture perfectly well despite non-compliance with the modern requirement for a physical DPC.

I personally carried out a comprehensive review of this very question and  what became clear is that the majority of academic commentary cited bridging rather than failure as the key issue, in fact it is fair to say that there was general agreement on this point. We  found only two cases where commentators cited their view that DPC’s fail, in both cases these were unproven opinion rather than proven fact. Here is an opinion given by Trotman P, Sanders C, Harrison H (2004)…  Physical dpc’s can fail occasionally, particularly those formed by engineering bricks or overlapping slates, following breakdown of the mortar; bitumen felt dpc’s can become brittle with age.  The ‘breakdown of mortar’ is the most interesting point in this statement but the idea that an engineering brick can fail is simply wrong. The authors do not go on to explain their point but we can only assume that this idea is linked to occasional building movement that results in cracked engineering bricks at DPC level. A crack in a brick or a slate DPC will not result in capillary rise in those units and we are firmly of the opinion that engineering brick DPC’s do not fail. Moreover they are the simplest physical DPC to visually inspect. The key controversy must focus on hidden DPC’s installed to the mortar bed joint. These can be formed from a wide range of materials including poured bitumen, bitumen felt, lead, copper, overlapping slates and probably one or two more that currently escape my mind. They are  often not even visible at the bed joint and this may be due to being hidden by high external ground levels, or more commonly, they have been pointed over. Both issues are clearly bridging issues rather than DPC failure and if you have a bridge then the simple solution to that problem is to remove the bridge.

To my knowledge no one has carried out a piece of research into alleged DPC failures and published their findings. It can’t be done by the damp proofing industry because they have a vested interest in promoting the idea of DPC failure. It would need to be an independent piece of work  that to my mind would be a valuable piece of research. I have considered co-ordinating this with a demolition company so that every time a building is taken down we can thoroughly inspect the DPC in the process. We have removed bricks from walls on many many occasions to inspect cavities and where we do this we have consistently found the old physical DPC to be intact and fully functional.

We have previously written that Portland cement degrades over time, initially it is resistant to rising damp until after many years of degradation it then becomes the major moisture pathway for rising damp. Where a continuous physical barrier is installed then clearly this is not a problem but this fact may well form at least a partially valid argument towards a claim that an engineering brick DPC has failed. Technically there would be nothing wrong with bricks but the mortar perps may allow rising damp via diffusion. Interestingly we have seen where perp joints have been left open on engineering brick DPCs and this would completely mitigate for this potential issue.  However, in all alleged cases of DPC failure,  what we commonly recommend is that so long as there is a provision for adequate wall base ventilation then this does not become an issue. It is all about maintaining moisture equilibrium, which is ensuring that moisture is evaporating off the wall as fast as it is rising.  Similarly, where we find that physical DPC’s are hidden we simply treat the building as though a physical DPC is not installed so that if external finished floor levels are a minimum of 200mm below internal finished floor level then this need not be a problem. There are thousands of properties in this country that perform perfectly well without a physical DPC and they generally do so because moisture equilibrium is maintained in their walls due to the fact that they are left bare, they are correctly  repointed with lime mortar, there is adequate subfloor ventilation, external finished floor levels are not too high and local ground moisture is managed.  You can of course apply all or most of these principles to a building that has a physical DPC installed, even one that has allegedly failed and you would mitigate for the alleged failure.

We are lucky enough to carry out a great deal of survey work on the Crown Estate. We deal with some very old historic buildings that were originally built to a very high standard. We are seeing properties over 150 years old where ordinarily we would not expect to see a physical DPC installed but on this Estate they do,  and this gives us a rare insight into some quite unique properties. Many of the images contained within this blog are from the Crown Estate and we are consistently finding perfectly functional DPC’s in some of the oldest properties to have physical DPC’s installed.  I may not have proven through this blog that physical DPC’s don’t fail but I can state with certainty that no one has proved that they do. We do not believe that physical DPC’s fail so if one is installed then you should give careful thought as to why you would even consider installing another unproven retrofit chemical injection system in the absence of any proof that the existing physical system has failed. We have always taken a balanced view on retrofit DPC injection because pragmatically there are times when lowering external ground levels may not be an option but the fact remains that we very rarely have a need to specify these management solutions because our focus is always on curing rather than managing or hiding the problem.

 

 

17 responses to “Do physical damp proof courses fail?”

  1. David avatar
    David

    A useful article. Thank you.

    I’ve got a garage which has what seems to be a bitumen felt DPC like the one shown in your third photo. Originally there was pointing over the DPC but over the last couple of years this has come away so the edge of the DPC is now clearly visible between the two courses of bricks all the way round the building. So it looks like the first photo in your carousel of images (where you say extrusion has blown the mortar) except that in my case the pointing covering the DPC has come away pretty much everywhere rather than just in a few places.

    Will that potentially give me a problem with damp? Do I need to rush to get it repointed or is this nothing more than a cosmetic issue?

  2. Alexander avatar
    Alexander

    Wonderful to see a surveyor who understands the futility of injected dpc’s, which frequently mar historic buildings and the importance of using lime mortar. Unfortunately I regularly see surveyors recommending damp proofing firms to give damp surveys, being happy with their methods and neglecting the importance in the difference between lime and OPC mortars.

    I have argued it out with a building surveyor who had a house built in 1720 repointed in OPC, damp proof courses injected and cement render installed. He also had a dpc injected on a rear wall of the house due to damp under a window, ignoring my pointing out the state of the cill which was causing water to run down the wall. Unsurprisingly after this the wall was still damp over the injected dpc and coming through the wall. However when some time later the cill was replaced at my suggestion the wall became dry…

    1. Joe Malone avatar
      Joe Malone

      Thank you for the kind words Alexander, and it is equally wonderful to see that others like yourself understand the problem.

      Regards

      Joe Malone

  3. Lee Trevethan avatar
    Lee Trevethan

    Joe Im from Australia I have a double brick house. Some of the brick mortar joints are loose and falling out. Some sections of the house have darker coloured bricks. Im thinking of just repointing with a lime based mortar. Can you advise the mixture and do you think the damp course is no good?

    1. Joe Malone avatar
      Joe Malone

      Lee, no one could possibly answer that based on such scant information.

      Regards

      Joe Malone

  4. Robert Purkiss avatar
    Robert Purkiss

    I have a serious problem with black mould in many of my rooms. I have just bought a hygrometer and it seems the readings I am getting are over 70 %. Is this the cause of the black mould as I have been told by 3 company’s that my dpc has failed.

    1. Joe Malone avatar
      Joe Malone

      Hi Robert,

      How could they possibly know that your DPC has failed? Did they remove bricks to check the DPC? Did they even test for moisture at depth in the masonry, by drilling the walls, and using deep wall probes or calcium carbide testing? Both are rhetorical questions, because I know the answer is no.

      As I’ve stated in this article, DPC’s are usually just bridged or compromised in some other way. However, if they are citing alleged failure of a physical DPC, as a causal factor for mould, then this is completely wrong, and high humidity levels are indeed a significant factor. Remember that condensation damp is still the most common form of dampness in properties, and you should consider the following factors.

      1. Have you got effective mechanical extraction installed in the property?
      2. Does the building have a fully controllable central heating system, and are you using it effectively.
      3. Is the building envelope well insulated? Old solid walled properties tend to suffer more from cold surface condensation.
      4. Are there any occupancy issues that would contribute to high humidity levels? I’d point out that occupancy issues are incredibly rare.

      Regards. Joe Malone

      1. David P avatar
        David P

        I also must add that lack of roof ventilation can lead to high humidity and condensation issues, notably mould, particularly around North facing window recesses. Some properties have felt membranes under the roof tiles that don’t breath, or there is a lack of roof ventilation in general, eg no ridge tile vents. If a property has a non- breathable membrane then it needs to be replaced with one that does breath, such as the ” air open” spec and nhbc approved. Also consider the need for clay ridge tiles with vents or even a dry ridge system. I’d take my time to get independent advice from a number of sources; a roofing company might be happy just to sell you something.,but you need to do your research before parting with your money.

    2. Joe Malone avatar
      Joe Malone

      Hi Robert,

      How anyone can link an alleged DPC failure to black mould is beyond me!
      You need to investigate the triad of issues that lead to black mould, heating, ventilation and insulation levels. More often than not poor levels of insulation are a significant factor and we are now living in times where people just can’t afford to use their heating. Despite this and previous governments banging on about fuel poverty for the last twenty years, they continue to make the issue worse.
      Don’t confuse humidity with condensation, they are not the same thing and I attend many homes with much higher levels of humidity that never have an issue with condensation damp.

      Regards. Joe Malone

  5. William avatar
    William

    Have lived since new in 1999 det 2-bed bungalow with unfilled cavity walls. Have had no damp issues whatsoever until now.
    Most rooms are papered, now lounge – 2 external and 1 stud walls – have wavy damp stains from skirtings upwards. I suspected faulty dpc but accept verdict of enlightening article.
    Carpeted floor is 5C colder than mid height, with CH room thermostat always at comfortable 21C (corresponds with adjacent thermometer).
    A complete layman, I need ask, why, after 23 years has this problem just arisen?
    If condensation is cause, how to better ventilate without losing warmth in extreme cold when lounge windows face north and east? Only radiator is beneath north window. Thanks in anticipation.

    1. Joe Malone avatar
      Joe Malone

      Hi William,

      I’ve made it clear that there is no evidence that DPC’s fail, however they can be bridged or compromised in some other way; for instance debris in the wall cavity. If you have unfilled wall cavities then I’d have bonded polystyrene beads cavity wall insulation installed.
      Regarding ventilation, ideally, have a Kair K-HRV150 single room heat recovery fan installed in the bathroom. This will recover much of the heat that would otherwise be lost using a standard extractor fan. Have this wired to run continuously on trickle speed with boost speed wired to the lighting circuit. Obviously do not open windows or trickle vents in the bathroom when the extractor fan is installed or this will let in cold air and short circuit the extraction process.
      Why are you having this problem now after 23 years? I cant answer that because I haven’t investigated the issues but we have had unusually cold weather lately. Has there been a change in occupancy levels lately?

      Regards

      Joe Malone

    2. Joe Malone avatar
      Joe Malone

      Hi William,

      1. If you have an unfilled wall cavity then get it filled with bonded polystyrene beads.
      2. Without moisture testing I don’t know the cause of your problem but dampness arises commonly due to leaks, this is the one thing that often changes and drives up local ground moisture levels, causing wall base damp and decorative spoiling.
      3. In terms of better ventilation, please read my blog on ventilation strategy and if you want to conserve heat, consider fitting a single room heat recovery fan. I generally specify the Kair K-HRV150

      Regards

      Joe Malone

  6. Mick avatar
    Mick

    Thank you for your interesting article.

    My property has had relatively high levels of damp at skirting level compared to say 1.5m above for the 20yrs we have lived in it. In one particular room, however, it is particularly bad and the plaster is bubbling. This is for an internal 9″ wall (no cavity) as well as outside walls. On the inside of the cavity wall, plasterboard held on by dot and dab technique is extremely damp (soft), but intact. I have drilled through the mortar about 6″ below the DPC and the mortar is just sodden, sticking into the drill bit groves. I looked at some of the slate which appears to be delaminating, but this is not universal. The nails holding the skirting to the wall are totally rusted and the wood around those nails black and rotten, though interestingly away from those nails the skirting seems okay (22% damp which is above what the 17% or so it should be but not excessively so). For the outside wall I have had the cavities cleared for debris to no avail. I have plenty of air vents, but not too many as to make it excessively cold under the floorboards.

    I cannot see what else the issue could be other than a DPC failure. The only other thing I could think of is an excessively high water table, or possibly (though they have been renewed) drains leaking in the vicinity, but surely the effect of that would be countered by a DPC. Any ideas?

    Thanks.

    1. Joe Malone avatar
      Joe Malone

      Hi Mick,

      Unless you can see the physical DPC along the entire length of the wall, on both sides, then you can’t make a statement that it has failed. Your default position should be that it is likely bridged by either high ground levels, debris in a wall cavity (if relevant), bridged by internal plasterwork or bridged by the mortar in the bed joint.

      Secondly, even if it is compromised you will often have no issues because true naturally occurring rising damp is incredibly rare. Timber skirting will often decay when in contact with wet masonry, and timber moisture content will almost always be well over the 20% danger point, where we start to see issues with timber decay.

      Obviously, we don’t know the masonry moisture content or whether or not you are simply dealing with chronic cold surface condensation but from your description of mortar clogging up the drill grooves, it certainly sounds like you have significant moisture at depth. You will need to investigate all services to the building, for possible leaks. Consider leaks to central heating, foul drains and incoming water main.
      If you think logically about this problem and ask yourself the question, has this wall always been damp throughout the history of the building, or is this a relatively recent phenomena? It will be the latter, which then begs the question, what has changed to cause this issue? I can assure you that it won’t be a failed DPC, and in almost all cases, it is failure of the services which drive up local ground moisture.

      Regards. Joe Malone

      1. Mick avatar
        Mick

        Many thanks for your reply Joe.

        Since my original note I have taken out the screws holding the radiator fixings to the wall. The two lower ones 11″ from the floor were rusty and one of the upper ones 27″ up from the floor was too.

        The DPC is just below the internal suspended floor. Outside, the DPC is at the same course level as inside, but the bricks above it do not look damp, despite the DPC being pointed over. I have read pros and cons of this, being that doing this bridges it but not doing it exposes it to rain. However, the problem really is inside and cavities where relevant have been checked and cleared.

        The house is built on a raft, so the walls are on the raft.

        The room in question benefits from a dehumidifier which is there to control the humidity for an acoustic piano. Humidity is circa 57%.

        I am going to investigate the drains. There was an issue previously which led to them being renewed with water under the floorboards (which led to wet rot of the joists and so the sub floor timber was replaced, plus plastic sheeting laid across the raft base with weak mix concrete to reduce humidity under the floorboards). Maybe the job was not undertaken properly and there still is a leak. The house was built in the mid 1930s.

        Can you explain though, even though the bricks and mortar are very wet, why wouldn’t a DPC stop this moisture rising if it is working properly?

        Thanks again,

        Mick.

  7. Steve avatar
    Steve

    Hi Joe very interesting article, I have a semi detached house and a patch of damp appears 300 mil millimetres up the wall although it is damp on the ground, The internal wall is a solid wall and there is no damp problem on the other side of the wall which leaves me scratching my head as to why the dampness isn’t on both sides? The dehumidifier is collecting about 2 L of water per day from the damp area and the surveyor is suggesting that the DPC has broken down and I need to inject the DPC chemical into the wall to stop the damp problems. Do you think this will sort the problem out?

    1. Joe Malone avatar
      Joe Malone

      Hi Steve,

      No I don’t think it will sort the problem out and if you’ve taken anything from the blog, it should be that DPC’s don’t fail. they are simply bridged or compromised in some other way. The high-level damp patch doesn’t normally align with wall base/rising damp, unless it transpires that a tanking render or renovating plaster has been applied at a lower level and damp has pushed up the wall to break out at the head of the tanking system. (See my blogs on induced rising damp).
      How much water your dehumidifier is collecting is fairly meaningless’ you can collect that much water in any house.

      Regards

      Joe Malone

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